How to Choose the Perfect Facial Cleanser: Neutral vs. Active vs. Treatment Cleansers
When it comes to facial cleansers, the options can be overwhelming. The right cleanser can turn washing your face into a little self-care ritual, leaving your skin refreshed and glowing. But the wrong one? It might make your skin irritated, dry, and turn your bathroom routine into a chore.
With foams, gels, creams, balms, and more on the market, I like to break cleansers into three main categories: neutral, active, and treatment cleansers. For those serious about healthy, radiant skin, using a neutral daily cleanser along with a targeted or active cleanser is often the winning combo.
In this post, I’ll walk you through these types of cleansers, explore their formats, and share some favorite picks to help you build a routine your skin will absolutely love.
Neutral Cleansers
A neutral cleanser is the foundation of any skincare routine. It’s gentle enough for daily use, morning and night, and does its job without causing irritation. A good neutral cleanser removes dirt, oil, makeup, and product residue while respecting your skin’s natural barrier.
Why Choose a Neutral Cleanser?
- Daily Use: Safe to use morning and evening without drying out your skin.
- Ideal for Sensitive Skin: Gentle enough for even the most delicate skin.
- Barrier Support: Helps maintain your skin’s natural moisture and pH balance.
Neutral cleansers come in various formats:
- Gels
- Foams
- Creams
- Balms
- Oils
My Favorite Neutral Cleansers for Daily Use
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Stone Crop Gel Wash by Eminence
A cult favorite, this best-seller removes all traces of makeup without irritating your eyes. It smells like a fresh, clean field of ivy and cotton, and lathers luxuriously with minimal effort. Truly the best for everyday cleansing! -
Ginger Turmeric Cleansing Balm by True Botanicals
Heaven in a jar. With its blissful scent, this balm turns face-washing into a relaxing ritual. Just scoop a little, massage onto dry skin, and remove with a damp washcloth. Perfect for anyone who claims to be “too tired” to wash their face—no excuses now!
Active Cleansers
Active cleansers contain exfoliating ingredients (either physical or chemical) that help increase cell turnover and renew the skin. They work beyond just cleansing, addressing concerns like dullness, uneven skin tone, and clogged pores.
Why Use an Active Cleanser?
- Boosts Cell Turnover: Refreshes the skin by sloughing off dead cells.
- Targets Skin Concerns: Great for acne, fine lines, hyperpigmentation, and more.
- Exfoliates: Refines skin texture and improves the effectiveness of other products.
Tip: Don’t overdo it! For most people, using an active cleanser a few times per week is enough to see results without over-exfoliating.
Types of Active Cleansers
- Physical Scrubs: These cleansers use ingredients like silica, olive seed, or jojoba beads for manual exfoliation. I rarely recommend physical scrubs for everyday use, but they’re perfect for rough, keratinized skin with significant buildup. A little goes a long way for smoother, fresher skin!
- AHA/BHA Cleansers: Glycolic, lactic, and salicylic acids are powerhouse chemical exfoliants in face washes. AHA/BHA cleansers use low doses of these acids for gentle, consistent exfoliation that improves skin texture, reduces acne, and brightens over time.
- Enzyme Cleansers: Enzymatic cleansers, derived from fruits like papaya or pineapple, break down protein bonds between dead skin cells. They’re gentler and less drying than acid-based cleansers, making them perfect for sensitive or dry skin types.
Top Picks for Active Cleansers
- Circadia Cleansing Gel with Mandelic Acid: A brightening gel cleanser for acne control and pigment balance.
- Bion Glycolic Cleanser: Tackles acne, decongests pores, and controls oil like no cleanser I've ever seen. Great for keratosis pilaris (KP) on the body, too—just don’t overuse it!
- Eminence Charcoal Gel Exfoliating Cleanser: A purifying, invigorating scrub that lifts and polishes even the dullest skin. Use with or without water for varying exfoliation.
- Eminence Barbados Cherry Enzyme Cleanser: A powder-to-lather formula with kiwi and papaya enzymes, packed with antioxidants for smooth, radiant skin—perfect for sensitive types, too.
Targeted Cleansers
Targeted cleansers sit between neutral and active. They focus on specific skin goals, such as reducing redness, calming rosacea, or firming the skin. These are ideal for clients already using strong exfoliants (like retinol or glycolic acid) in serums or creams.
While some targeted cleansers contain low amounts of acids, they rely on other active ingredients to work their magic. This makes them gentle enough for daily use without overwhelming the skin.
My Favorite Targeted Cleansers
- Bion Bacteriostat Cleanser: This unique gel-to-foam cleanser treats mild acne, supports microbiome health, and targets rosacea without heavy acids. A real gem for sensitive skin.
- Eminence Firm Skin Acai Cleanser: Creamy and hydrating, this cleanser is loaded with botanical hyaluronic acid and antioxidants to treat dry, aging skin while boosting elasticity.
When to Use Active vs. Neutral vs. Targeted Cleansers
There aren’t hard rules, but I generally guide clients to follow a simple routine when introducing active ingredients.
- Neutral Cleansers: Anytime, anywhere. Neutral cleansers are great for evening use to remove dirt, makeup, and pollution, prepping your skin for a nighttime routine. They also work well with retinol products, which you’ll usually apply in the evening.
- Active Cleansers: Best in the morning! Start with every other day, then increase as tolerated. Active cleansers aren’t designed to remove makeup, so the morning is ideal. Plus, these cleansers leave a thin layer of acid that works throughout the day. If you prefer to use an active cleanser at night, make sure to double cleanse (start with an oil or balm).
- Targeted Cleansers: Use twice daily, or mix with active and neutral cleansers as needed, depending on your skin goals.
The Notorious Double Cleanse
The best way to wash your face after a long day? Double cleansing. This is the only time I recommend using an active cleanser at night—after thoroughly removing the day with a gentle oil or balm cleanser.
How to Double Cleanse:
- Start with an oil or balm, like the Stone Crop Cleansing Oil or Ginger Turmeric Cleansing Balm. No water needed at first—just warm the oil in your palms and massage into dry skin, focusing on areas with makeup.
- After 90 seconds, use a damp, warm washcloth to remove the oil cleanser.
- Follow up with a gentle foaming neutral or active cleanser.
Extra Credit: Remove eye makeup and do an all over-pre cleanse with Eminence’s Herbal Eye Makeup Remover before starting your oil-clenase and make it a triple!
Conclusion: Crafting Your Perfect Cleansing Routine
The key to finding the perfect cleanser is understanding your skin’s needs and knowing when to use neutral, active, and targeted cleansers. With the right combination, your skin will stay clean, balanced, and glowing—and ready to soak up all the goodness in your other skincare products.
If you’re unsure where to start, feel free to reach out for personalized recommendations—I’m always here to guide you on your journey to healthier skin. You can order a virtual consultation with me here. After you check out, I’ll be in touch to schedule our 30 minute video chat so I can help guide you to the perfect cleansing routine!
Cleansing with Benefits: Your discount code for 10% off your next cleanser purchase (yes, choose as many as you want!) is PERFECTCLEANSE. Happy face-washing!